One of the best things about designing my own fabrics and getting them printed through Spoonflower, is that I can order as little as an 8″ square sample of fabric from them. In fact that’s what I do when I’m designing a new collection. Samples cost $5, and can even cost a little less if I’m order my own fabric samples from an actual collection. But then I end up with dozens of 8″ square samples of fabric! And at $5 a pop, I don’t want to waste them. That’s why I’ve come up with a great tutorial on what to do with those 8″ square samples from Spoonflower: Make Your Own Coin Purse!
If you don’t have an 8″ sample from Spoonflower, no worries. You can use any 8″ square piece of fabric. I highly suggest you use cotton (or the Basic Cotton Ultra from Spoonflower, or possibly the Eco Canvas from Spoonflower). This tutorial works great for busting through that scrap stash too.
What You’ll Need
- 8″ fabric sample from Spoonflower (or you can use any 8″ square piece of cotton fabric). Here’s the link to the fabric design I used for this tutorial!
- 8″ square cotton fabric for lining (or you can use a second sample if you choose). You’ll really only need a 6″ x 8″ piece for the lining, so dig around for a scrap or two.
- 8″ or longer nylon zipper. I usually get my zippers online, but you can also find zippers at your local fabric store.
- Scrap of fusible fleece or mid-weight fusible interfacing. You need TWO pieces that measure 3″ x 5″. I used fusible fleece for this tutorial (because that’s what I had on hand), but regular fusible interfacing will work fine too. You can get away with not using interfacing, but I like the added durability of using interfacing.
- One 1/2″ (or 5/8″) D-Ring. Again, I usually find my purse hardware online, but most fabric and craft stores have small d-rings. You can get away with no d-ring as well. I like using one because then I can clip the coin purse to a carabiner.
- Fabric Scissors
- Matching/Coordinating Thread
- Sewing Machine
- Take your 8″ square and cut a 2″ strip off of one side. Set aside this strip for the moment; we’ll get back to it in just a bit. If your fabric has a directional print, make sure your 2″ strip runs the same direction as your print, or you’re going to be a sad little monkey.
2. Cut the remaining piece of fabric (which should measure 6″ wide by 8″ tall) in half so you have two pieces that measure 6″ wide by 4″ tall.
3. Next, cut out two lining pieces, both measuring 6″ wide by 4″ tall.
4. Set aside your coin purse pieces (fabric and lining) and get that 2″ strip you cut out first. Cut this strip in half so you have two pieces that measure 2″ wide by 4″ tall.
5. One of these strips is going to be used for the D-Ring, and the other strip is going to be used for finishing on the zipper. Let’s deal with the piece for the D-Ring first.
6. Fold and iron this piece (2″ x 4″) in half lengthwise (so folded, it measures 1″ x 4″).
7. Open up the strip you just folded in half, and fold each raw edge of fabric in towards the center fold. Your strip will look a little like bias tape.
8. Fold this strip back in half so that only the “fashion” side of the fabric is showing, and the only raw edges are on the short ends of the strip.
9. Now, let’s make the zipper ends out of the remaining 2″ x 4″ strip of fabric. First, you need to trim about a 1/4″ off of the long side of the fabric strip. The final strip should measure about 1.75″ x 4″. Go ahead and throw out that little 1/4″ scrap–it’s dead to us!
10. You’re going to fold and iron the remaining strip in the same way you did the first one (for the D-Ring). Fold the strip of fabric in half lengthwise and iron. Open up the fabric and fold each long, raw edge in towards the center, and iron again. Fold the strip back in half and iron one last time. Once everything is ironed, cut the strip in half so you have two 2″ long folded pieces.
11. Cut out 2 pieces of interfacing (can be fusible fleece or regular, mid-weight fusible interfacing) measuring 3″ x 5″.
You should have the following pieces
- Two 4″ x 6″ main fabric pieces (from the 8″ sample)
- One 4″ long folded (to about 1/2″ wide) fabric piece for the D-Ring (also out of the 8″ sample)
- Two 2″ long folded (to about 1/4″ – 3/8″ wide) fabric pieces for the zipper ends (also out of the 8″ sample)
- Two 4″ x 6″ lining fabric pieces
- Two 3″ x 5″ fusible fleece pieces
Woohoo! You’re done cutting! Pat yourself on the back, throw a parade, eat some chocolate . . . you get the idea. When you’re done celebrating, come back and get ready to iron on some interfacing.
12. Iron the fusible fleece to the lining pieces (you can iron them to the main fabric pieces instead, it won’t make a difference in the end). If you’re not sure what setting to use on your iron, I suggest using a pressing cloth (or scrap of fabric) between your iron and the interfacing. Make sure your interfacing’s glue side is facing down onto the wrong side of your fabric!
Just a little note: I cut the fusible fleece smaller than the actual pieces so that there won’t be fusible fleece within the seam allowance. I did this to cut down on bulk. If you’re using fusible fleece, I suggest trimming off your seam allowances. I know it’s an extra step, but your finished product will look so much nicer! If you’re using the regular mid-weight fusible interfacing, trimming off the seam allowances is not nearly as crucial.
Putting It All Together!
I like to start with all the small pieces when working on a project. So we’re going to take care of the D-Ring first and then the zipper.
Sewing The D-Ring Tab
- The D-Ring! Take the folded piece of fabric for the D-Ring and stitch the long open edge closed about 1/8″ from the edge. I used an Edge Stitching Foot for this. If you don’t have one of these, a Blind Hem Stitching Foot will work. Or, you can simply use your usual presser foot. If you’re using your regular presser foot, line the edge of the fabric up with the edge of the presser foot. Move your needle a notch (maybe two, depending on your machine) over to the side so your stitch line will be closer to the edge of the fabric.
2. Flip your strip of fabric over and edge stitch along the other long side (just like in the picture!)
3. Thread the stitched strip through your D-Ring and fold the short edges of the fabric strip back together. Use a zipper foot to stitch close to the flat edge of the D-Ring.
4. Trim the stitched fabric to about 1″ away from the D-Ring.
Sewing The Zipper End Tabs
- I like to use a zipper that’s a little too long for the finished piece so I can trim it down to size. I also like to finish the ends of the zipper off, so that the zipper is about the same length as the finished coin purse. This way, the zipper ends don’t get caught up in the seam allowance, and you get a nice square edge to the top of your coin purse.
Take your zipper and place it over one of the main fabric pieces and with some chalk mark about 1/2″ in from each edge.
2. Go ahead and trim off the closed end of the zipper at the mark you made. Be sure you DO NOT cut off the head of the zipper. You will be a very sad little monkey if you do that. And you’ll need a new zipper.
3. Place one folded zipper tab over the cut edge of the zipper. With your regular presser foot, Stitch about 1/8″ from the folded edge, stitching over the zipper teeth.
4. Do the same for the other end of the zipper. Make sure the zipper pull is placed so that you’re not cutting it off (I refer you to the “sad monkey” statement above). This means you’ll be stitching the fabric tab onto the open end of the zipper. If you need to, you can start stitching the tab with one side of the zipper, stop, and then place the other side of the zipper underneath the presser foot.
5. Once you’ve stitched the two fabric tabs onto the end of the zipper, trim off the excess fabric.
Installing The Zipper
- Place your zipper face down on one of the main fabric pieces. The main fabric should be facing up. Place your lining fabric face down on top of the zipper. I know this sounds confusing, but if you look at the picture you’ll see the main fabric piece facing up with the zipper facing down. On top of that goes the lining fabric, also facing down. You’re pretty much making a zipper sandwich. Make sure you place the zipper about 1/4″ – 1/2″ away from each short edge of the main fabric, and center the zipper. Once things are placed where you want them, pin everything together. There’s no hard and fast rule to pinning. Use as many (or as few) pins as you need to in order to feel confident stitching. Just be sure to take out the pins as you’re sewing!
2. Use your zipper foot to stitch that first zipper sandwich together. Turn these pieces out so that one side of the zipper is covered by the main fabric and lining while the other side is still exposed.
Now for the other side of the zipper!
3. As in the picture above, place your stitched pieces so that the main fabric is facing up. Take your remaining piece of main fabric and line it up with the other, placing it so that it’s “fashion” or printed side is facing down. Your main fabric should be placed with the “fashion” or printed sides facing each other. Be sure to line up the long top edge of your remaining fabric piece with the top, exposed side of the zipper. Place the lining, face up, on the bottom of this new zipper sandwich.
You can see in the picture below, you’ve got the lining fabric facing up on the bottom. The zipper with the one finished edge in the middle, main fabric facing up (and it’s sewn on lining automatically facing down). The top of the zipper sandwich is finished with the remaining main piece of fabric facing down.
Pin your pieces together as necessary and stitch using a zipper foot.
4. Open up your pieces so that the zipper is exposed and the main fabric pieces are facing up, the lining is facing down. Iron your fabric as necessary.
Now go enjoy the parade being thrown in your honor for successfully installing a zipper! Yay!
Attaching the D-Ring Tab
- This part is pretty easy. Pick one of the main fabric pieces. Because the same fabric is on the front and back, it doesn’t matter which side you pick. Place your D-Ring Tab just below the exposed zipper. I like to put the zipper tab on the side of the zipper pull with the zipper closed.
2. When you stitch this piece on, use a 1/4″ (or smaller) seam allowance. You don’t want these stitches to show in the final coin purse. Also, be sure you’re only stitch the D-Ring Tab onto the main fabric piece and not the lining too. You’ll want to move that lining out of the way!
Stitching Up The Coin Purse
- Because I used fusible fleece, and I trimmed the fusible fleece so that it doesn’t extend over into the seam allowance, I like to use the zipper foot to put the coin purse together. You can use your regular presser foot, but you might find the zipper foot easier to maneuver around the ends of the zipper.
2. Line up and pin your main fabric pieces. Do the same for the lining pieces. Make sure your zipper is open. You’re going to stitch around the outer edge of both pieces, but you’ll need to leave an opening in the bottom of the lining pieces. It’s really important that the zipper is left open and that you leave an opening along the bottom of the lining so you can turn all your pieces inside out when you’re done.
3. Pin your pieces as necessary and stitch, with your zipper foot, about 3/8″ – 1/2″ from the edge. Your needle should line up with the edge of the fusible fleece on the lining pieces.
Leave the needle in the fabric and lift the presser foot in order to turn the corners.
When sewing past the zipper, make sure you’re not catching any of the zipper end tabs in your seam.
4. Once you’re done stitching around all the edges, leaving a small opening in the bottom of the lining, you’ll want to trim the corners and the excess fabric around the zipper. Just take a look at the pictures below.
Trimming the fabric around the corners and the zippers helps the coin purse have nice sharp edges at the corners.
5. Turn the coin purse inside out. Use a turning tool or a blunt pencil to GENTLY poke out the bottom corners of the main fabric. Your corners should have a nice point to them.
6. With the lining fabric pulled out through the zipper, fold under the raw edges of the opening you left in the bottom of the lining. Align those folded edges and stitch them closed. I did this on the machine, using the Edge Stitch foot (just the same as sewing the D-Ring Tab). Again, if you don’t have an edge stitch foot, you can use a Blind Hem foot, or you can use your regular presser foot. Just line up the edge of your fabric with the edge of your presser foot and move your machine’s needle over one or two notches so you can easily stitch about 1/8″ away from the edge.
You can also hand stitch this opening closed if you don’t want to see any stitching on your finished coin purse.
7. Tuck your closed up lining inside your coin purse. You might need to use your turning tool (or that blunt pencil) to push out the corners and get everything looking neat. Voile! You’ve got a finished coin purse!
Yay! Be sure to share this tutorial AND share your finished coin purses on my Facebook Page!
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